Ingredients for Aging Eyes

By: Richard Banks, Elite Serum CTO

Posted: January 9, 2012

Eyes are among the areas on the face that are most concerning to aging clients. The delicate skin that surrounds the eyes often becomes dark, puffy and wrinkled as time passes. However, with the help and recommendation of spa professionals, the proper eye creams and serums featuring the latest in anti-aging ingredients, can be obtained by clients.

When recommending a solution to skin aging around the eyes, consider using products in the treatment room and retailing products in your boutique that feature advanced formulas that include highly concentrated blends of the most potent anti-aging peptides and moisturizers. Following are several anti-aging ingredients to look for in an eye product.


Argireline. Argireline, manufactured by Lipotec, is the brand name for acetyl hexapeptide-3. It is considered by experts to be one of the best needle-free alternatives to Botox. Argireline has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth, especially around the forehead and eyes. This was proven in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2002. In this report, it was demonstrated that a cream containing 10% acetyl hexapeptide-3 used by healthy women volunteers reduced wrinkle depth up to 30% after 30 days of treatment.

SNAP-8. The anti-wrinkle octapeptide SNAP-8, manufactured by Centerchem, is an elongation of the hexapeptide Argireline. It is well-known that the molecular mechanism involved in facial aging is directly related to changes in the conformation of the collagen triple helix, degradation of the elastin polypeptides and certain disorder in the packing of the lipidic matrix of the skin. It has been clearly established that these conformational changes and the disturbance of the perfect packing of the lipid matrix can be significantly avoided by modulating muscle contraction.

Haloxyl. Haloxyl, manufactured by Sederma, also known as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, reduces puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. This peptide works by encouraging proper circulation in that area. Essentially, studies have indicated that Haloxyl reverses the fluid buildup that naturally occurs while sleeping. Eyelid swelling is a common cause of puffiness and dark circles. Accordingly, when you lie down, gravity causes fluid to accumulate in your lower eyelids. Haloxyl counteracts this effect by increasing the lymphatic drainage by 85% in clinical studies.

Eyeliss. Eyeliss, manufactured by Sederma, is a proprietary combination of three active peptide molecules that are designed to rapidly and effectively reduce puffiness and bag volume under the eyes by more than 70% upon application. This biomolecular-engineered solution was discovered as a result of sensory perception screening tests that were specifically designed to treat puffiness under the eyes.

Matrixyl 3000. Matrixyl 3000, manufactured by Sederma, contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR, which act in synergy to restore and maintain skin’s youthful appearance. Matrikines are messengers of cutaneous restructuration and repair. They activate the neosynthesis of extracellular matrix macromecules, thus providing Matrixyl™ 3000 with a visible anti-wrinkle efficacy. As messenger molecules, these matrikines are capable of regulating cell activities. More specifically, they interact with specific receptors to trigger the stimulation of certain genes involved in the process of extracellular matrix renewal and cell proliferation.

SYN-Coll. SYN-Coll, manufactured by Pentapharm Ltd., stimulates the collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts. Skin aging—and in particular, chronic UV exposure—leads to degenerative changes in skin. This is characterized by distinct alterations in the composition of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM). The consequences are manifold, such as increased skin fragility, leathery skin appearance and formation of wrinkles. Collagen represents the main component of the ECM of the dermal connective tissue. Thrombospondin I (TSP) is a multifunctional protein that activates the latent–but-biologically inactive form of TGF (tissue growth factor). TGF is known as the key element in the synthesis of collagen and binds to a particular sequence in the TSP molecule.


Red and green seaweed extract. Natural seaweed extracts found in the Elite Serum™ work to target glycation and preserve the skin’s natural collagen. In in vitro tests, the ingredient was shown to inhibit skin-degrading enzymes and the glycation process. Glycation is triggered when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in the skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme. The resulting glycation process impairs the functioning of biomolecules, which weakens the skin structure at a cellular level, leading to a less firm surface and a greater tendency toward wrinkling.

Pure hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is the key for maintaining water substances in human skin. Due to aging, natural hyaluronan concentration in the skin decreases at an alarmingly increasing rate throughout time. Accordingly, the skin’s ability to maintain moisture is weakened, and it gives the appearance of being dry and rough. When hyaluronic acid is applied back to the skin, it penetrates the dermis, combines with water, and promotes microcirculation and nutrient absorption. It forms an air-permeable layer to help keep the skin moist and smooth. The result is rapid skin rejuvenation, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, crow’s-feet and other cosmetic signs of age around the eyes caused by sun exposure, smoking, stress and other common factors.


Do You Know Your Blood Type?

I find myself asking almost everyone one of my skin care clients this question during treatment because of a book I’ve read….

My friend Sammy showed me this book about six years ago and really all I remembered of it was that it said for my blood type, I couldn’t eat cashews and I love cashews so I didn’t give this book much more thought. But that was before I became an esthetician and obsessed with all things skin.
For the last two years I have come to notice the very strong connection between the health of the skin and nutrition. When I came across this a few months ago for the second time I saw it in a whole new light. I’m not a big fan of fad diets, but this diet is not just to shed a few pounds it is for the HEALTH of your body (including your skin!)
I have learned through plenty of other nutrition books that the less your body has to filter, (preservatives, food coloring, hormones, pesticides, antibiotics) the more beautiful your skin will be and this means eating a very clean, usually vegetarian, vegan, or raw diet.
Many people I know, (including myself being an A- blood type), benefit from a meat and dairy free diet. I also have known people who have tried these types of diets and end up wasting away into skin and bone or experience very upset digestive systems. It’s argued that this author’s research is not backed by enough published evidence.…. but judging from my small interviews with people, most A blood type people tell me that they have a hard time digesting red meats and experience gas after eating dairy. And the O blood types I know always say that a vegetarian diet just wasn’t enough for them. In the book you learn about the four blood types and what foods are beneficial, what food are irritating and the reasons why. Is it just coincidental that over and over in my interviews my clients say the same thing the book says about their diets? I think not.